Apr. 16--Tired of pretzels and peanuts aboard airline flights and the fast-food outlets that dot airports, some travelers are turning to top-ranked hotels to take aboard haute cuisine or at least a decent meal. 

That's what guest Richard Tucker does at the Four Seasons Resort in Palm Beach, where he's known to the staff as "the Commander." He says the term "airline food" has become an oxymoron. 

"It's a godsend -- a veritable feast," says the World War II fighter pilot, who comes to the hotel each winter from Bloomfield Hills, Mich. "Trying to find quality food at the airport is impossible, and I don't think I could survive on the bag of peanuts the cabin attendants dish out." 

Tucker and his wife, Barbara, order two "Airline to Go" fried chicken meals from executive chef Hubert Des Marais -- dark meat for him, white meat for her. Add to that cornbread and cookies. 

The Four Seasons is among a growing number of upscale hotels around the country that offer guests the one amenity they can enjoy after they've checked out -- an airline meal that doesn't look like one. Hotels are now printing special menus and promoting the service to guests. Resorts that have prepared these meals for years report they are selling more of them. 

That's because, as a result of reduced passenger volume following the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks, coupled with high operating costs, the chance of getting a full meal en route has diminished considerably on domestic flights. 

"There is a general trend toward carrying food on the airplane. Hotels are catering to this," said David Stempler, president of the Air Travelers Association. "It's a result of a cutback in food service." 

That's particularly true among the discount carriers. Southwest Airlines, the champion of no-frills service, has no plans to start serving in-flight meals despite its profitability. Passengers on longer flights will continue to get an "enhanced snack pack" of bread sticks, cheese, cereal bar, cookie and "meat stick." 

AirTran Airways, formerly known as ValuJet Airlines, won't serve meals, either, because most flights are under two hours. One exception is United, which has beefed up the quality of its cuisine. 

While some hotels tell guests to call room service for a flight meal, others have institutionalized the service. At Palm Beach's Four Seasons, an Airline to Go menu is placed in every room. 

Fried chicken, which the Commander craves, isn't on the menu. It's a special order. Among the permanent offerings: oven-roasted turkey and applewood smoked bacon on challah bread and a double chocolate walnut brownie, $23. Then there's smoked Atlantic salmon with a bagel, "traditional accompaniments" and a freshly baked muffin, $25. 

For those to whom cost is no object, Des Marais has concocted a meal featuring golden Osetra caviar and chocolate-dipped strawberries. The tab: $185. 

Mineral water and a piece of fruit, like an apple or banana, are included with each meal, as are napkins and utensils. An ice pack ensures the food will remain fresh for four or five hours, the chef says. It all comes in a vinyl container with the Four Seasons logo. 

At the Marriott Harbor Beach Resort and Spa in Fort Lauderdale, the packaging isn't as promotional, but the food is just as upscale. 

"It's a lot more appealing than ham on a bun with dijon mustard, which is about as much as you're going to have served on a plane," says Harbor Beach executive chef Michael Swann. 

Prices generally range between $15 and $20, and a typical meal includes two or three sandwiches, two pieces of fruit, two snacks and a salad. For kids, a peanut butter and jelly sandwich is standard fare. 

"We'll cater to whatever the guests want, but we try to raise the level," Swann says. "For example, if the request is for a bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich, we'll suggest adding smoked salmon. We want to create something they'll remember. We're in the business to create memories." 

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